If the noise-causing accessory has a motor, a source noise filter can be installed on the accessory's power lead to minimize radiated noise. If the car computer or other motor-less accessory is causing the problem, move your receiver's wiring away from that accessory to minimize the radiated noise. Try using magnetic shielding foil also called Mu-metal to shield the back of the receiver or wrap the wire or component that's radiating the noise into your system.
Noise introduced through the power and ground wires connected to your receiver is called engine noise or alternator whine. If engine noise is your culprit, you may hear a whining or clicking sound. Its pitch will usually vary with engine speed.
If this is the case, you can install an alternator noise filter on the power line between the battery and the alternator to minimize the problem.
You can also install a noise filter on the receiver's power lead to cut down on signal pollution American International's S15A amp, watt or S25A amp, watt filters, for example.
Most often, however, alternator noise comes from a loose or intermittent ground connection. See the section below about noise in the electrical system. An alternator noise suppressor connects inline between the alternator and battery, and can reduce high-pitched whining noise that modulates according to engine RPMs. An amplifier can introduce noise into your system through a bad ground or through a poor mounting.
Rubber grommets or feet can help isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the vehicle, a potential source of noise. If all else fails, install a noise suppressor. The tricky part is figuring out which step or steps to take. Please read the rest of this section and try some of the simple tests. Is it near something that could be radiating noise, like a rear-mounted tuner or computer? If so, unbolt it and move it away to see if the noise stops. Remove your patch cables.
If you still hear noise, check to see if your amp is isolated from the vehicle's chassis. Any contact between your amp's metal casing and your vehicle's body could cause noise problems.
Is it securely attached to the vehicle's chassis with a good contact to clean metal? Your ground wire should ideally be 18" long at most — a longer ground wire can cause noise problems. Improper grounding causes most system noise problems. If you have an external amplifier in your system, the first thing to do is to quiet any system noise, which sounds like a constant, low hiss.
First, check for system noise with the engine off. Insert a CD and put your CD player on pause. Listen to the system with the volume way down, then way up. Put on music. If you hear hiss or static in either instance, reduce the gain on your amplifier. Pass more signal from the receiver to the amp by leaving the receiver's volume higher before you set the amp's gain. Experiment until you eliminate the hiss or reduce it as much as possible.
A tiny bit of hiss is okay — you won't hear it while driving. Noise can be picked up by the RCA patch cables connecting your components. To test this, detach the cables from your amp. Insert one side left or right of a spare patch cable into the amp's left and right input jacks see illustration below. Turn on your system and engine. If the noise is gone, reconnect the cables to the amp, and disconnect them from your receiver. If you hear the noise, your patch cables are definitely picking it up.
Try re-routing them. Separate them from your power cable by at least 18 inches. You could try a better brand of patch cables. The inexpensive RCA cables many people use to connect their components don't have the insulation or conductivity necessary to deflect noise in a metallic, highly conductive automobile. A cable's loop area is equal to the distance between its center conductor and outer shield times the length of one complete twist in a twisted pair configuration, or the entire length of the cable in a coaxial type.
Consider trading your old cable for one with a twisted pair design. You'll get a smaller loop area and less noise. As a last resort, a ground loop isolator like PAC's SNI-1 can be installed between the receiver's preamp outputs and your amp to minimize this problem.
Noise can be created by cable of insufficient gauge, so you might try thicker cable. If you cannot find the faulty ground in your multi-amp system, a ground loop isolator can help minimize the problem. Multiple amplifiers can also create ground loop problems, which can usually be solved by grounding each amplifier with its own separate wire. If you are unable to locate the cause, a ground loop isolator like PAC's SNI-1 can be installed between the receiver's preamp outputs and the amplifiers to minimize this problem.
Noise can also come in through the speaker wires. To test them, turn the system off and disconnect the speaker wires from the amps. Now start the car. If the noise is still there, then it's being radiated into the speaker wires. Reposition them, or, as a last resort, shield them by wrapping them with Mu-metal foil.
If you've tried all of the noise-fighting tips above and you're still getting static, whine, or hiss, then the problem might be with your vehicle. You might simply need to fill your battery with fluid. If that doesn't help, have a mechanic check your alternator and battery. If your car is older and hasn't been tuned up recently, you may have ignition noise.
It's a ticking noise that varies in speed as you accelerate. You may need a tune-up involving resistor-type spark plugs, shielded carbon-core spark plug wires, distributor cap, and coil. If the noise doesn't disappear, then your ignition system may not be grounded well enough and is broadcasting ticks to other items such as your air cleaner, hood, exhaust system, etc. Chances are, grounding one of the under-hood components will eliminate the noise. With your sound system on and the car running, try grounding each of these different components of the car.
It's possible that grounding one of your car's components will eliminate the noise. If so, make the ground permanent with a braided ground strap. A very effective fix for electrical system noise is called "The Big Three" upgrade. This establishes better current flow and more consistent voltage, which improves your system's signal to noise ratio.
It also ensures against loose or restrictive ground connections, which, as said before, are common sources of noise. Read our article about The Big Three for more information. Noise problems can be very frustrating, especially when you can't wait to hear your new equipment. It helps to remember that you've just placed a very sophisticated piece of electronic gear a new receiver or amplifier in the middle of an extremely complex system — your vehicle's electrical wiring.
Noise is just nature's way of telling you that something's out of whack. Just run down the list, eliminating possible noise sources until you find the problem. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. The toll-free number is on your invoice.
I recently installed led headlights in my 03 jeep TJ. They have running lights so I installed a switch in the stock switch panel. The jeep has a amp under the driver seat. I get a very annoying squeal in all audio sources only when my running light switch is flipped on. Using things like windshield wipers and blinkers change the pitch of the squeal. When I flip the headlights on the squeal goes almost completely away.
What should I do? After connecting a kenwood ddxs on a chevy camaro everything works good but only when I conect to Bluetooth I have this static noise a I've called customer service and I've been told os the ground problem but is the same ground that it was originally with the old radio any ideas.
Im getting buzzing but just in the speakers connected through the amp, not the factory speakers powered by the head unit. I unplugged the RCAs from the amp and the sound goes away. Would I just need a ground loop interuptor? Noise in radio that gets worse when you start driving. Also, no sound from one side, distorted on the other. I am not a car guy. Live in Portland Maine.
Got the radio back, same problem, brought it back, now he has had the radio since September and he keeps saying the repair shop that he will not identify is waiting for a part.
After reading this article I am terrified that I am getting ripped off. Does your company have a repair instillation facility near me, or can you recommend one.. Thank you guys for the knowledge.. I got Altima with factory radio and 2 jl audio w3 12s with a mempis amp i got a strong static pop whine noise that cuts on or off when i turn steering wheel it will stop for a bit then come back.
It turns off if i disconnect the speaker from amp. I checked all connections and ground to amp thet all connected good. I looked over head unit and the ground is with antenna wire could this be the cause? About to pull my hair out. Kenwood double din. JBL amp. Bad whine with RPM, semi bad even with engine off!! Changed power wire. Changed to triple shielded RCA. Added RCA ground loop isolator. Added ground from amp to head unit. Added ground from battery to frame.
The weirdness - noise is persistent with music paused, but completely gone if I hit mute. Without isolator, with it the noise just muffles on mute but doesn't disappear Factory Bose amp had no problems, We assumed it's the new amp. But unhook rca from head unit, directly from amp into headphone jack on phone, clear sound.
Help please! None of this recommendations and problems are whats happening to me. I turn on the car, the sound comes out clean, but if I use the power windows, lock the safety belt, put on drive and change from gear it present an electrical popping sound, is super annoying. Change the amp, wasn't the problem. Re-install the oem radio and it improve. My Acura TSX is making a high pitched whining sound when the radio is off.
The radio is stock and my left rear speaker has not been working for a while, but that is where the annoying noise is coming from. Also, the right rear speaker is no longer working either.
What could the source of the noise be? Bad speaker? Got one havent seen, I have a pioneer double din with 2 sony amps for maybe 6 years now. Recently when using blue tooth to call people they complain about noise and it gets worse as I speed up or down, I dont hear this noise or any noise in the speakers etc.
Only the callers hear it, to the point they cant even talk to me, been getting worse. Blue tooth going out? If the sound gets muddy when you turn it up, you need the added power of an amplifier. You probably know the difference in sound between your TV speakers and a home theater system. An amplifier in your vehicle can make that kind of difference. You'll hear a bigger, fuller sound, with more detail and greater impact, especially if you've installed better speakers in your vehicle.
The first consideration is how many speakers you'll be powering and how much power each speaker will handle. Once you know that, you'll know how many amplifier channels you'll need and how much power you'll want. Yes, you can, as long as you have a basic knowledge of electronics and you're handy with tools.
You'll have to run a power wire from your vehicle's battery back to your amp's location, and then a ground wire from the amp to your vehicle's chassis. It's important to do the job correctly so you don't damage your vehicle. Our Tech Support people can help you if any issues come up. Check your speakers or sub to see how much power they can handle in terms of "watts RMS.
Speakers are more forgiving, so you don't always have to max them out, although more power always sounds better. The easy answer is "one speaker per channel. There are plenty of exceptions to this rule, so contact an Advisor to get the best advice for your situation. How much power and how many channels do your car speakers need? This guide will help you choose the right amplifier for your car's sound system. Check out this overview of a typical installation to see the steps involved when you install an amplifier in your vehicle.
Where should I mount it? What wiring do I need? What size fuse and power wire? These wiring diagrams illustrate how amplifiers connect to your audio system, which will make it easier to shop for the gear you need for the system of your dreams. Car amplifier audio terms - like watts, volts, and efficiency - are explained. Confused about wiring your subs and picking the right amplifier? Crutchfield will get you on the fast track to big bass with this simple guide.
You need to set your amplifiers gain correctly in order to enjoy your musics full range of dynamics hearing all the notes clearly, whether loud or soft. Here's a method for setting amp gain fast and accurately using test tones. Here's a step-by-step guide to installing a car amplifier, including how to run the cables through your car and how to wire the amp.
There are many ways to connect subwoofers to an amplifier. Our wiring diagrams will help you find the best way to wire your subs and amps so you'll get the best performance out of your gear. For free personalized advice, call Our Advisors have listened to most of the speakers we carry, and can help you make the best choice for your system. Close contact box. Call See our hours Our hours Hours 7 days a week. Looking for International Support? Connect ID. What is Connect ID? Call us at Your advisor will be able to share relevant pages and add items to your cart.
Your security and privacy are ensured. Our advisors cannot see anything that is on your computer. The red and blue wires plug into the ignition wire that is inside the car stereo, while the black connects to the ground wire. And there you have it, crystal clear sound! It is especially good if you have installed an amplifier or weak ground connection. Although it requires a little more wiring work and is a little more expensive, its installation is easy, and the results are great.
I have added a Boss filter to my car before, and all weird buzzing noises have disappeared. It is also available on Amazon, and if you would like to get rid of annoying sounds forever, click the above link and check the latest price.
The function of a noise filter is simple enough. They come in a variety of different forms and shapes, and some require different methods of setup. For this reason, it can be a confusing bit of a kit to get the hang of using. It is really crucial to fit them correctly, or they will not have the desired effect, and you will still hear that pesky interference behind your audio.
A noise filter, also known as a noise isolator, works to eliminate background and engine noise to achieve a clear, uninterrupted sound. Buzzing noises and whining noises can be heard when several audio sources use the same power source.
The unwanted noise is able to travel through the ground wire and manifests itself as a white noise that can be heard through your speakers. The noise filter is used to reduce this interference, in order to leave clean sounding audio behind.
The noise filter blocks the current of the loud, buzzing noises, which leaves only the pleasant sound of your music to play through your speakers! Time for some science. A noise filter, or EMI filter, is fitted with components that allow only low-frequency currents to pass through.
The buzzing, whining noise is of a high frequency, so it is blocked by the filter and unable to make any sound. The reason the sound exists, to begin with, is because of an excess of energy. The noise filter sends this excess of energy into the ground wire, rather than letting it out through your speakers.
After the noise filter has completed its task, you are left with crystal clear audio, so sit back, relax and crank that radio up!
So, we know what a noise filter is and how it works, but how do you know when you need one. It is true that there can be a variety of reasons why your car stereo is producing unwanted background noise , so it is important to identify what the problem is straight away.
If you go to your car, turn on your radio, and there it is! It could be a buzz, a whine, or a crackle. The audio in your vehicle is being compromised by static and noise. You have created a ground loop in your car. When the car stereo is connected with an auxiliary cable to an audio device, such as a phone or speaker, and also to the same power source this is when the problem occurs. But luck is at hand! A noise filter is a quick, easy fix for this problem, and you will be back to having high-quality sound playing from your car stereo in no time.
If a noise filter does not stop the interference, then either the noise filter has been installed incorrectly, or your problem is not with the car sound system but something external.
First, check that you have installed the noise filter correctly, making any necessary adjustments for the type of noise filter you have purchased and the make and model of your car. Secondly, if you are certain that the noise filter has been installed correctly, then it is time to further investigate the problem and try to locate where the excess noise is coming from.
The best thing to do is to turn your engine off. If you are able to still hear a whining, buzzing noise, then unfortunately you have a problem that will not be fixed with a noise filter. Your next step will be to really listen to the noise and find out where it is coming from. It may be difficult to locate exactly where the noise is coming from.
To aid with this, noise deadening material may be used to help you pinpoint exactly where the problem is. Once you have found the problem area, you can either kit it out with the material to mask the sound or conduct further research into how to fix this problem.
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